Is your Anderson 4-way valve really hard to turn?  Does your fresh water tank fill when it’s not supposed to?  If so your Anderson Valve may need to be rebuilt. It’s quite simple and may actually not cost you a dime ( as in free!).

Our Heartland Landmark 5th wheel is over 3 years old. My Anderson Valve was always a bit difficult to turn but was getting worse and worse as time went by. Also, I noticed that my fresh water tank would slowly fill up when on city water sometimes. Then one day it was almost impossible to turn. I decided it was time to fix it. I wrote an email to ron@andersonbrass.com and explained my issue and asked for some consideration to replace my valve even though it was well out of warranty. He replied that we would be happy to sent me a rebuild kit as that should fix the problem. How awesome is that!  I did some poking around on forums, and found out my experience is not unique. So if you are having a similar issue with your valve send and email to Ron or call the company, chances are good they will send you what you need!

Three days later it was delivered to our campground.  The small box contained a bag with the core of the valve, a small Allen key, a replacement screw, and instructions.

To remove the old core you first take off the selector handle by removing the screw and pulling straight back. Next take the small Allen key and loosen the set screw until it is raised about 1/8″.

Next push in the brass knurled cap and rotate 1/8 turn counter clockwise. I had to use a pair of plyers to grab and loosen the cap. Remove cap, spring, and washer.

Now you can put the selector handle and screw back on so you can remove the core. Twist back and forth while pulling and the core should come out.

You can see where the o-ring is split.

The other side had one of the o-rings completely missing. Easy to see how the valve was bypassing water and filling the fresh water tank.

After you put the selector handle and screw back on the valve body you gently insert while turning until the valve body bottoms out. Make sure it is pointed to one of the four selections (doesn’t matter which one), so the click washer will sit flat.

You now take the selector handle back off so you can install the click washer. Put the Click washer back in making sure the locating tab is in the internal body groove and is sitting flat against the back. Now put the spring back and knurled cap back on and turn 1/8 turn clockwise to lock in.

Now turn the Allen set screw clockwise until it is flush. Put the selector handle on and tighten using the new screw. The instructions also said to rotate slowly 2 turns in both directions. That’s it!

Now you can hook your hose, water filter, and pressure regulator back up and you’re done!

We always use a water filter on our water inlet. There are two reasons for this. One is to remove the chlorine found in our public water supply. We really do not like the taste of chlorinated water anymore, and there is increasing concerns with the THMs (Trihalomethanes) that they can form. Two, the filter can really help clean the water up when your are in a private campground that has a well. We have encountered slightly cloudy water that the filter removes quite well.  We use this Camco filter and find it to be small, economical, and lasts for months. You can order one here by using the link below.

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